Bunker Bed Drama

The diner at Orisson was rather simple and as always all pilgrims (52 of them) introduced themselves with their story and reason for the pilgrimage. I drank about 5 beers and invited each time Doug from Philadelphia, who is also a Baritone traveling with his wife, an urologist.

Those 2 were also sleeping right next to me in bunker bed city. I saw how his wife put earplugs into her ears…for a good reason: Doug from Philadelphia was farting and snoring non stop all night joined by Balu from Brazil whose snoring must have woken up the pilgrims in the other room….in other words: I slept less than 4 hours even though we went to bed at 9 pm. This will definitely be my last night in a bunker bed!

It was cold like hell all night, 4 degrees outside (39 Fahrenheit) and 4.5 inside. I claimed the questionable woll cover from the bed above me which stayed empty - but even that did not keep me from freezing. I kept my contact lenses inside my eyes all night and could not brush my teeth as my luggage got lost, I felt uncomfortable to say the least.

When I got up at 6:30 am I had to realize that my clothes which I put up for drying around my bed was still wet…How am I supposed to walk today? I took my breakfast and Jil, the urologist. Let me in on the secret that behind a door next to our dormitory marked private there was a public washer and dryer. I threw in my wet clothes and waited about 30 min. Everything was almost dry, dry enough for me to start the big climb to 1500 meters.

On my way I meet Andrew and Hugo, two mail men from Washington state. ‚We are physically not prepared for this‘, Andrew complained. Around the next corner Hugo gave up: ‚ I am walking back and take a taxi‘ Hugo announced and took Andrews Backpack with him. I am still with my tiny backpack I bought in St Jean Pied and the thought of giving up crossed my mind. But as Andrew noted ‚ you Germans give never up when you put your mind to something‘, I kept walking. It was cold and soon my clothes was soaking wet from sweating and raining. Temperature dropped to freezing on top - I must be crazy to walk this Camino.

Finally I reached the top, Andrew was out of sight and I never saw him and Hugo again… maybe they gave up. 20% of all pilgrims are American now, but many of them come unprepared and don’t think that the first day can frustrate you to give up, the Camino is physically and mentally challenging like nothing else there is.

I reach Roncesvalles at 11:45 and was lucky that the hotel already had a room for me. 30 min later the receptionist calls me with the release ‚your luggage has arrived from San Sebastián Aiport‘. I take a hot shower and change into non smelling clothes - yeahhh. At 6:30 I have my pilgrim diner…anything carbs I inhale like air and at 8 pm the pilgrim mass ends the day.