Early start in pitch dark night


Yes, I told myself that I will take it easy this time, but I wake up fully motivated at 5 am and get ready. I leave the hotel at 5:30 am and leave my big Packsacks behind for the transport service - all the way to Pamplona is my plan.




I get on the path next to the national route and have to realize soon: it’s pitch dark. I have to walk with my ears making sure my shoes still are on the small rubble path. The darker it gets the more I hear the night birds of pray howling - scenes from a horror movie go through my head, and then all in a sudden I am in front of a tree. I cannot continue like this, it’s too dark, and I realize that my iPhone has a flashlight - that must do it. As soon as I turn it on I realize that I am completely off the path, thank you Apple for saving me.

I keep walking down the path and after 5 km I turn even though I cannot see the Pilgrim way sign anymore. I doubt that I am on the Camino, really, this early? Not a single sound is on the Camino. At 7:30 am I stop in a Spanish cafe for breakfast… it’s just me and the bartender. He starts talking about a neurology book he red. I keep nodding friendly even though I don’t follow him completely. The cafe con laiche warmed me up and back on the Camino I am. I spot the first pilgrims at 8:30 am…where are they all? The 200 pilgrims in Roncesvalles and 150 in the neighboring villages must be still all asleep or taking the bus:))

Todays incline is 800 meters - and that even though I decline 500 meters in total, in other words: after the tiring pyranes crossing yesterday this is a really tough day. Especially the downhill climbs are slippery and dangerous.



I hear what I interpret as cow bells but come to realize those are horse bells - never saw that before!!



I finally get down to Zubiri after 23 km and have brunch to be ready for the last 19 km which are rather flat and easy all the way to Pamplona. My hotel is next to the impressive cathedral of the city. As my clothes are soaking wet again and hot shower warms me up before I dive into the busting Saturday night street life.



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