Steap up and down the hill to Ponferrada,

As the weather forecast had thunderstorms in I get up early and start my hike at 5 am. This also gives me a jump start to all the other pilgrims heading for the iron cross on top of this mountain from Foncebadon, the village 5 km up the hill, where there was only a big youth hostel. When I get to the top, the most iconic place of the Camino Frances, I spot the iron cross on top of a 5 meter oak tree stump. I feel solidarity on the one hand but I also feel that my mom‘s stone needs another location and hold on to it without adding it to the giant pile of stones. Even though this is a 1000 year tradition I want to find another place for my special stone.

For the next 3 km it’s a constant up and down along the spare bushes and stone landscape. 1 km before El Acebo it gets extremely steep down - good that I had my backpack shipped to Ponferrada today. The additional weight would have been quite the drag. From El Acebo on I decide to continue on the street as there is almost no traffic. The way is lees steal even though it’s longer. After crossing the nightingale valley I finally get to Molinaseca. Now it’s only 7 km more to Ponferrada. The way down in general  is rather uncomfortable as it is steep and rocky. I make it to Ponferrada in one piece and enjoy the impressive medieval old town.

I want to have lunch at their superb restaurant Mani, but when I stay in front I keep ringing the bell and nobody answers until a local lady passes by to inform me that this place is only open Wednesday through Sunday. I take a wild try with the restaurant next door - nothing like the Michelin star Mani; in fact, completely nothing in common as all the food I eat, asparagus, sardines and tuna are out of can. But at least the onions and tomatoes it came with are fresh:)